YDG #2: San Francisco

San Francisco is literally my favourite city in the world.  To say I left my heart there is an understatement.  I also left a lovely pair of Persol sunglasses – if anyone finds them, please email me!

Where LA is about the body, San Francisco is about eating, drinking, and the cool northern California air.  Health is more earthy here, not the botox, purging, heavy-workout on the beach, spray-tan health of LA, but a more granola, green tea, sustainable farming, Birkenstock kind of health.  And Wealth.  Oh there’s that too.  Internet wealth. Obnoxious MBA venture capitalist wealth.  But the views and the air more than make-up for it.

Full disclosure and mea culpa, I have not discussed some of the 'inner' parts of the city, but would recommend considering jaunts into Hays Valley, Haight/Ashbury, Diamondback, Inner or outer Sunset or Richmond, and even the Castro district.

Now, a few things to remember about SF:

1.   NEVER call it San Fran.  People will hate you.  Also, there’s an area that’s south of Market street, which holds a lot of start-up companies (Internet, and otherwise).  It’s been called SOMA, but NEVER call it that – people will hate you.

2.   Walking in SF is good, but only if you know exactly where you’re going, and where you’re going is within 4-5 city blocks...  Otherwise, just take a car or Taxi – you will be winded within 10 minutes given the hills.  They really are that steep.  On that note, if you do go by car, make sure to use the steering wheel when you park on a hill (turn it to the left if you’re up a hill, right if you’re facing down a hill).

3.   Focus your time near the water.  The city component has SERIOUS bohemian charm, but most of the breathtaking/spectacular aspects of the city are along the waterfront.  Ignore this if you have a week there, as there’s plenty to explore in the city if you have time. 

4.   As Mark Twain said, the coldest winter he ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.  The East Bay is a desert.  When it heats up, the hot air rises and cold air from the ocean gets sucked in – the hotter the desert, the more cold air that needs to rush in.  Because most of that coast is mountainous, there are few opportunities for that cold wind to rush through.  EXCEPT between the spires of the Golden Gate Bridge.  There’s a huge gap in the middle, and you can literally see the cold air rushing (like a highway of cloud) over the bridge and through the bay eastward.  As such, the entire north part of the city of SF is very foggy and, as Sinatra said “cold and damp” – ironically coldest in the summer.  All this to say – dress flexibly!

THINGS TO DO:

- 49 Mile Scenic Drive.  This is a really great way to orient yourself and to hit a lot of points at once.  It meanders through San Francisco, up through the beautiful homes of Pacific Heights, then through The Presidio, next to the Golden Gate Bridge, The Palace of Honor, and comes out right on 9th Street between Lincoln Way and Irving  then it goes off to the ocean.  Check out the route below:

 http://www.onlyinsanfrancisco.com/maps/49miledrive.asp.  End up at Ocean Beach and walk along the beach for sand dollars.  Extra prize if you can find a whole one.  Very romantic in late afternoon – assuming it’s not foggy.

- Cable Cars.   I would suggest that you do this bright and early in the morning, before the crowds hit.  Check out the routes here:  http://www.sfcablecar.com/routes.html.  The Hyde line takes you from the Ghiradelli Square to Market St., and gives you a full view of the city.  You can use this if you don’t want a car:  start at Ghiradelli Square in the morning, head down to Union Square/Market Street, then shop.  OR.  Start at Market St., then up to Ghiradelli Square, and head over to collect your bicycles at Blazing Saddles (see below).

- Blazing Saddles.  http://www.blazingsaddles.com/.  Rent bicycles and ride from Fisherman’s Wharf, through the Marina district, seeing the Worlds Fair site, then up over the Golden Gate bridge into Marin County.  One right turn and down a hill and you’re in Sausalito, stop for shop, drink (maybe a crab cake at Scoma’s http://www.scomassausalito.com/.  then continue biking to Tiburon.  Have late patio lunch and/or a few Coronas on the very California casual seaside patio at Sam’s in Tiburon http://www.samscafe.com/, then take the ferry right back to the Wharf (you can drink in Tiburon as your cycling will be over by then!).  Gives you a very natural view of Marin County, and great views of the Marina, the GG Bridge (as you’re riding toward it, views of SF and the bay as you ride across the bridge, and back across to SF from Sausalito and Tiburon.  The ferry will also go near Alcatraz, so you can get a closer view of that as you’re heading back into town. 

- If you don’t do Blazing Saddles, you can also walk through the Marina, to the 1906 World’s Fair http://www.housenumbers.ca/SFPavilion.jpg, which is so beautiful, then to the bay, along a newly opened sanctuary called Crissy Field along the beach, then go all the way to Fort Point, which is right under the bridge.  It’s a 1 hour walk, but it’s very worth it (bring a spring jacket, as it will be windy!).

- Alcatraz.  This is a commitment, and something you’ll have to book at least a few weeks before you arrive.  I would suggest that you can see this from a ferry traveling from Tiburon or Sausalito back into SF, and skip the tour (it’s really a great tour, but it takes at least half a day).

- Shopping.  Union Square is basically a giant mall.  EVERYTHING is here, so enjoy. REMEMBER that Banana Republic/Gap/Levis were founded in SF, so you’ll see these stores everywhere.

- The SF MOMA.  Think the MOMA in New York. It you like art, and want to spend your day there, go for it.

- Coit Tower.  Another lookout with a great view.  The best reason to go anywhere near here is just to walk around North Beach.  Bring your oxygen as it's a good walk/jog straight uphill (or take a car!).

BARS

- BIX Bar – This is a YIANNI EXCLUSIVE.  For real elegance (and a great Martini), BIX is great.  It’s tucked away in an alley in North Beach part of the city (56 Gold St.).  Don’t be scared if the taxi turns down a dark alley – it’s mid-way down.  Wear something nice, but the bartenders are all in white coats and ties (a common thing in SF), and they have beer too!  Just hustle some seats at the bar and watch the flow of traffic in and out.  You can order seafood or any other snack at the bar (think of Balthazar in NYC).  Highly recommended as a first drink of the evening.  You could have dinner there as well, but SF is spoiled for choice, so move on!

- Bubble Lounge.  Close to BIX, but closer to the city, there’s the Bubble Lounge.  This is basically a champagne bar, and during happy hours (YES, they still have happy hours in SF!) it’s very popular, and on Fri/Sat. nights into the wee hours.

- Top of the Mark.  On the top of the Mark Hopkins Hotel, there is a 300 degree roof bar/restaurant called the Top of the Mark.  It’s a little like the Park Hyatt roof-bar in Toronto, only much bigger and with a spectacularly better view!  You could have an early dinner or Sunday lunch there.  On most evenings, there’s a jazz/swing band, and you can dance there.  It’s upscale (if a bit old) so you’ll need a jacket.  Think the Rainbow Room in NYC, but you can actually just walk in and get in.

- Tosca.  This is another out of the way place, but RIGHT in the middle of the city.  It’s owned by Robert DeNiro and Francis Ford Coppola.  It’s a classic huge bar, and has a giant antique espresso machine.  It’s near the Zoetrope building – which is Coppola’s production company name, and there’s a restaurant in here as well (not that great!).

- The Triangle.  This is a notorious spot for pretty young things in SF.  The triangle is a collection of three bars/restaurants that sit on three corners of the intersection of Greenwich and Fillmore.  The City Tavern, Balboa Cafe, and Eastside West.  On the fourth corner is Plumpjack Wines, and just south on Fillmore is MatrixFillmore, owned by Plumpjack, which is also a great lounge.  The triangle is known thusly because people tend to ‘disappear’ with strangers by the end of the night – a la the Bermuda Triangle.  They tend to reappear later that night or in the morning, or even later that weekend if they can catch an early return flight from Las Vegas.

- Vesuvio.  This is a beautiful pub with stained glass windows and two floors.  Great intro to the bohemian San Francisco - it's on Jack Kerouac Alley if that gives any guidance.

- If you find yourself in SF on St. Patrick's Day, or you want to drink a lot, or are Irish, then please consider either The Irish Bank, http://www.theirishbank.com/, which will be overrun no doubt, or O'Reilly's Irish Pub in North Beach.  There's also a little pub called The Little Shamrock, which is one of the oldest bars in the US.  I don't think they've changed the carpet since then either, but hey, you don't go for the view.

- If you're french, or want to play grab-ass with someone who is, I can highly recommend (especially on Bastille Day) Belden Place, also known as The French Quarter.  Or, you could also consider Absinthe in Hays Valley http://www.absinthe.com/.  I seriously enjoyed the food/atmosphere here - it's out of the main tourist area as well.

FOOD/RESTAURANTS 

- For a classic diner feel, try Fog City Diner.  It’s on 1300 Battery St., near the square where Levi Strauss started his jean empire.  It’s an upscale diner, great food, near the Embarcadero and the east-side piers.

- Pier 23.  This is a very downmarket beach-like bar and diner/eatery on the north end of the Embarcadero.  It’s basically fried fish/chips in a basket, and a corona/anchor steam beer kind of place.

- Ebisu - 1283 9th Avenue, San Francisco.  Hands down, THE BEST sushi place in SF – no reservations allowed, small place, right on the 49 Mile Scenic Drive route.  Get there earlier in the night to avoid waiting (up to 2 hours if it’s crazy busy).

- Ace Wasabi - 3339 Steiner St. near Chestnut.  This is in the heart of the Marina and has a great crowd - youngish, professionals, snobby Internet types.  Creative sushi, but it’s small and crowded.

-  For Chinese, I can highly recommend one place:  House of Nanking - 919 Kearney St. (on the edge of Chinatown and North Beach).  It's the best Sichuan restaurant around - it looks kitchy and down market - which it is.  However, the best way to enjoy is to just let the chef just bring you his specials, they'll take care of you (tell them if you have food issues!).

- For dirty, awesome Mexican I recommend what I believe may be the world's largest burrito at El Toro Taqueria (598 Valencia St at 17th St. in The Mission) - seriously good and seriously down-market.  My brother Bill came to visit me in 2000, and claims to still be digesting his burrito years later.  You can get a table here, or just try eating it standing-up (not recommended).  There's also some great bars in the Mission too - Blondies, ChaChaCha's, etc.

- For asian-fusion, I would recommend Betelnut, on Union St. in Pacific Heights (2030 Union St.).  This is a great upscale place in the heart of Cow Hollow/Pacific Heights.

- Another Asian Fusion place is The Slanted Door.  (1 Ferry Bldg).  Used to be my favourite restaurant in SF, but it’s moved and not sure about the quality.  However, the bar scene is very good apparently now.  Not sure if that means the food is any better, but the Vietnamese-style Chilean Sea Bass is still a fond memory.

- Jackson Fillmore.  This is a VERY small, cozy bistro right in the middle of the AMAZING homes in Pacific Heights.  Anything with pasta is delicious.

- For a ‘Rodney’s’ kind of feel, go to Swan Oyster Depot.  http://www.frommers.com/destinations/sanfrancisco/D41098.html.  It’s ancient – about a hundred years old.  It’s also out of the way but right in the middle of the city.  Go in for some delicious seafood, unpretentiously served at the bar.

Breakfast.  Try Delancey Street Restaurant.  It’s run by ex-convicts – very Alcatraz!

Grove Cafe.  For a somewhat pretentious but trying-not-to-be breakfast place, go right into the marina, on Chestnut Street.  It’s called Grove Cafe.  http://www.yelp.com/biz/grove-cafe-san-francisco.  Organic EVERYTHING, and very earthy look (but with Type A lululemon/MBA ladies reading the NY Times on their iPad).

In North Beach, I've enjoyed several restaurants, mostly Italian.  Including Enrico's:  A very good place for mid-large groups and open space for stalking, I mean people watching;  Rose Pistola:  EXCELLENT pasta;  and The Stinking Rose:  If you like garlic, and if you're NOT a vampire, this is the (somewhat kitchy) place for you.

- Other great, but ridiculously restaurants include:

- Rubicon – also owned by DeNiro – classic Northern California cuisine

- Postrio - owned by Wolfgang Puck, I had an amazing dinner here, and can highly recommend.  Inside the Prescott Hotel

- Boulevard – bring your bank manager to approve the appetizers, but some say it's worth it...$$$$

- 5^th Floor – this is also crazy expensive, but best service in SF – also right off Market St./Union Square

- Kokkari - I couldn't not have a Greek restaurant here, and this is by far the best one (and only one) I've found in SF.  It's quite good, but upscale.  200 Jackson Street.

HOTELS

I tend not to recommend hotels in SF, as there’s such a wide disparity of quality and price.  There is very much a price/quality relationship (i.e. you get what you pay for), so I recommend thinking about where you want to be to minimize travel time and focus on the nicest place you can afford in that area (either Marina/Fisherman’s Wharf - Union Square – or South of Market (note I didn’t say SOMA?).

In order of quality, I can suggest the following:

- Fairmont San Francisco – get a city-view if you have the coin

- The Mark Hopkins (Intercontinental Hotel)

- Argonaut Hotel

- Clift Hotel – Union Square (an Ian Shrager place – like the Hudson in NYC)

- Hotel Monaco – Union Square

- Radisson (SOMA)

- Travellodge – Fisherman’s Wharf

I LEFT MY HEART IN SAN FRANCISCO (Tony Bennett)

The loveliness of Paris
Seems somehow sadly gay
The glory that was Rome
Is of another day
I've been terribly alone
And forgotten in Manhattan
I'm going home to my city by the bay.

I left my heart in San Francisco
High on a hill, it calls to me.
To be where little cable cars
Climb halfway to the stars!
The morning fog may chill the air
I don't care!
My love waits there in San Francisco
Above the blue and windy sea
When I come home to you, San Francisco,
Your golden sun will shine for me!